Throughout Oregon, the hamlet of ASHLAND , forty miles southeast of Grants Pass, is identified with William Shakespeare - a real anomaly among the rest of the timber and dairy-farming towns. Since 1945, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival has been held here between February and October, packing audiences into the half-timbered Elizabethan Theatre in Lithia Park. Its setting, between the Cascade and the Siskiyou mountains, is magnificent; there's good skiing in the winter and river rafting in summer; there's also some excellent contemporary fringe theater - not to mention pleasant cafés, galleries and a friendly atmosphere throughout.

The Angus Bowmer Theatre , adjacent to the Elizabethan Theatre, stages both Shakespearean and more recent works, while the appropriately named New Theatre has a mostly modern repertoire. The three theaters share the same box office (tel 541/482-4331, ) and tickets average around $40, sometimes half-price on the day; standing room at the Elizabethan Theatre costs $10. For a further helping of contemporary drama, try the Actors Theater , three miles north in the tiny town of TALENT , at Main and Talent streets (tel 541/535-5250, ), or the Oregon Cabaret Theater , in a renovated pink church at First and Hargadine streets (Feb-Dec; tel 541/488-2902, ).

The visitors center is at 110 E Main St (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; tel 541/482-3486, ), and there's a seasonal information kiosk - with longer hours - at the entrance to Lithia Park off Main Street. Greyhound buses drop passengers on the edge of town near the I-5 freeway exit. Ashland has over sixty B&Bs ($75-200), most of which are in charming Victorian homes. Ashland B&B Network (tel 1-800/944-0329, ) or Southern Oregon Reservation Center (tel 1-800/547-8052, ) can get you a room (and theater tickets). Perhaps the finest B&B overall is the Mount Ashland Inn , five miles south at 550 Mt Ashland Ski Rd (tel 541/482-8707, ; $160-200), offering five marvelous suites in a scenic wooden lodge, with fireplaces, hot tubs, and fine breakfasts. In town, nice local hotels include the restored Ashland Springs Hotel , 212 E Main St (tel 541/488-1700, ; $75-160), easily the town's most prominent building, with a charming, two-story lobby, day spa, afternoon tea, and nicely appointed rooms; and the cheaper Windmill Inn , 2525 Ashland St (tel 1-800/547-4747, ; $75-130), with complimentary breakfast, spa, swimming pool, and convenient location near I-5. For budget options, the Ashland Hostel , 150 N Main St (tel 541/482-9217, ; $18), is friendly, clean and well-located, while the no-frills Palm Motel , 1065 Siskiyou Blvd (tel 541/482-2636, ; $50-75), is one of the better motels on this stretch of road.

The main choices for eating and drinking can be found along east and north Main Street , near the entrance to Lithia Park. The choices vary widely, from the good and affordable Ashland Bakery Café , 38 E Main St (tel 541/482-2117), to the pricey, eclectic entrees of The Firefly , 23 N Main St (tel 541/488-3212), and the upscale French Chateaulin , 50 E Main St (tel 503/482-2264). Overall, your best bet is Greenleaf , 49 N Main St (tel 541/482-2808), an inexpensive but excellent eatery with standards like pasta, burgers, salads, and seafood nicely crafted with fresh, tasty ingredients.